inner part of a vintage reed organ. You *should* use hot glue, but liquid hide glue also works here. The Pipe Organ Database is the definitive compilation of information about pipe organs in North America. Surfaces that have previously had hot glue on them usually don't need sizing, as the old glue serves this purpose. Para todos os significados de ROS, clique em "More". With the action upside down, inspect the valve seats, guide pins and so forth. The instruments are privately owned, in churches, or in historical society collections. You will probably need to replace the felt strips which the reed frame butts impinge right in front of the cells. Following the second rinse. The universally accepted lube is bees-wax, which not only eases the insertion of a screw into its hole, but helps reduce rust and thus helps assure the easy removal of the screw in future. Rebend the tabs on the underside into the wood as they were originally. Review of Conklin Reed Organ & History Museum Reviewed November 7, 2015 The Museum is part of the Hanover-Horton Historical Society's offering to guests both local and from away. Who it was to first conceptualize the process of joining "things" by applying Archimedes' principles has not been recorded, but the process was certainly well known by the beginning of the 16th Century, if not before. “Reed organ” commonly refers to instruments having free reeds (vibrating through a slot with close tolerance) and no pipes. Reed Organ Society, Inc. - An International Organization. Dots can be made using an arch. All too often this point is overlooked by builders and repairers alike. to the plastic lid covering the keyboard and parts of the logo are missing from the top of the organ. 6. Although many dealers aver that true antiques must be 100 years old or older, many consider the pump organ in the same category as an automobile and include them as antiques if built before the Great Depression. Twill works best, though). The reeds show no serious corrosion or severe discoloration, there being only some loose dirt on them. Have ready also some flat boards which will cover the ribs, and some fairly heavy weights: bricks, old window weights, whatever, and have your glue hot and ready. Piano-cased reed organs often have 88 keys; not all of them are always functional! After completing the sanding, blow off loose dust with the air blast, and set the keys aside, keeping them in order. The task of cutting all those strips of felt and leather may seem daunting, but on most production instruments it was done in a really simple way. There are some museum curators who take the position that all reed organs, being more-or-less "old", should molder away in musty museums somewhere, to be played rarely (and only with permission! If they are truly of ebony, the 0000 steel wool works well. Too much friction can generate enough heat to ignite it. In very bad cases, you may have to re-bush the entire keyboard. Remember to LABEL *everything*! Before starting to strip the lower action further, take some time to inspect what you see carefully. Put the action flat, exhausters down, on a work table. With *everything* out of or removed from the action, the next step is a thorough blowing-out of the reed cells and so forth. If the old carpets are worn through, soak them off with copious applications of *hot* water. However, there may be a group of facings that are the same length for a dozen notes or so, then a group of shorter facings, and so on. find the closest possible modern size, and if necessary re-bore the holes to avoid splitting. Next, prepare the felt. Select a portion of the skin that is. Then let it dry thoroughly (overnight is best). They will require touch-up tuning later, but for now, procure a fine artist's brush or badger shaving brush, and carefully brush off all loose material, moving *always* along the tongue from butt (rivet) to tip. 8. A later episode may discuss what to do about missing reeds and broken tongues. International Reed Organ Society. Leather can be had from many sources. Almost any heavy card-board (*not* corrugated!) Don't give up! MARKINGS: Dates, signatures, job numbers, tuners' information and other items of interest that have been placed on various keys, usually in pencil. Leave the excess on the movable part for later. Let this joint set up well. $3,300/best offer. Remove the key-slip (in front, below the keys), any lid, music-rack or other items that might restrict access. Place a small weight to hold each rib in place, and mark the position of each with a dark pencil. Note 2: Pin through the "selvage" (material that will be trimmed off), not through an area that will form the working part of the reservoir! Anything you plan to do to the organ's case should be undertaken next. Working from just beyond the center mark out to the ends, quickly apply a goodly layer of glue to the divider (non-movable) board where the material is to go. It is pre-gummed, but don't rely on this: use hot glue. Remove the masking tape holding the felt to the table, move the whole lot out of the way somewhere, replace the weight in position, and go on to the next group. Clark J. Whitney and Votey bought out the failed company and in 1883 organized as the Whitney Organ Company. There tend to be slight variations from hinge to hinge, so getting them back in the same spot where originally installed helps prevent problems of alignment; the clearances are surprisingly critical! In 2007–2009, the building was restored and converted for use as affordable housing. In addition to the foot treadles with 2 bellows, it has a crankshaft with 3 bellows having a large side hand crank. Metal-etch cleaners based on phosphoric acid are useful here, followed by polishing with steel wool. Soft leather makes the best gasket here, but it is not unusual to find paper or felt: the latter is really too porous: always replace it. small tack near the end on each side may facilitate your work. ** Cut this strip of rubber cloth, and mark it's exact center end-to-end. Add Organ. Continuing the example, you will need a single piece three-and-a-quarter inches wide, and long enough to extend over the *width* of notes 1-13, with a bit of "spare"; another piece two-and-seven-eighths wide, long enough to cover notes 14-25; and so on. The exceptions are the tiniest reeds in the treble octaves: the smallest dust mote can render one of these mute. All sorts of screws are still made of brass, though these are now getting expensive and difficult to find. I find ordinary household ammonia both cheap and effective: get the kind that does NOT contain detergent. The sixth - and most common - deadly sin is that of "munging" the heads. Push them straight in: no side-to-side "wiggling" is necessary or desirable, as it is easy to collapse the wall of a cell in this way. View All View Extant. appropriate way and sequence to produce - one hopes! This helps lubricate them, and slows reactions with components of the wood. The Pipe Organ Database is the definitive compilation of information about pipe organs in North America. Screws were later made from varieties. They are usually held by three carpet tacks at each end. Hold the reed by its butt and tap the tip of it on a hard surface with the reed tongue down: this action will cause the tongue to move away from the frame and loosen any specks lodged near the rivet. Aims of the Reed Organ Society To bring together through publications, correspondence and meetings all persons seriously interested in all types of free reed instruments. Put a piece of masking tape on the surface you're working on, lengthwise alongside the felt, but the requisite distance from it so that the butt of the valves can be aligned to it. Most of the dirt on a suction reed will be on the upper surface, however. This edge of the mute that has the small excess flap of leather is tricky to trim and get right. I say "typical", because there were a few manufacturers who threw a monkey-wrench into this process: early Mason & Hamlins, for example, included a tiny wooden "button" right under where the sticker rests on the valve: refacing these valves uses a different approach. Note: Some mutes are held in place by leather and/or cloth hinges, often assisted by a small strip of tin and a couple of tiny nails. When I was young, my father often said I was obsessed with screwing. Drop the keys onto their frame in order, and secure with the catch rail (just a few screws for now). 1898 Hinners Chapel Reed Organ. More often, though, you are presented with something that has accumulated masses of dirt which has fallen between the keys; some or all of the felt may have been reduced to rubble by moths; and the wires themselves are rusty and/or corroded. A reed pipe (also referred to as a lingual pipe) is an organ pipe that is sounded by a vibrating brass strip known as a reed.Air under pressure (referred to as wind) is directed towards the reed, which vibrates at a specific pitch.This is in contrast to flue pipes, which contain no moving parts and produce sound solely through the vibration of air molecules. Keys at the extremes of the keyboard are most commonly marked, but many others may gather inscriptions over the years. There may be strips of wood glued and nailed to the divider, and sometimes along the edges of the exhausters and reservoir as well. Each key gets the following attention, step-wise: 1. Previous issues of the ROS Quarterly are currently available by this special offer - they are free! An entire treatise could. Charlie Robison, ROS Publications Secretaryc/o Reed Organ SocietyPO Box 47Independence, MO 64051-0047Phone: 816-461-7300Email: chuck99er(at), The Reed Organ Society ©2018An International Organization, Reed Organ Manufacturers of Washington, New Jersey. Heavy blotting paper works, but leather really "does it". When it is clear that the material you wish to remove is gone, dip the reed in the first pot of rinse-water, swish it around, remove it and shake off excess water. BUSH: A verb, "to bush"; in essence, to create a bushed joint. Do them all, then turn the assembly over on a strip of wood to press all the bearings "home". Remove the swell action next: usually just a few screws. Get advice on doing that kind! Blocks of bees-wax can be obtained at any hardware store, and seemingly last forever; usually they are lost long before they are used up. It is worth the price anyway. These details, too, are easy to forget. The assembly upon which the keys sit and "do their thing". Similarly, resist the temptation to use neoprene foam. In the USA, rubber-cloth is available from Organ Supply Industries, POBox 1165, Erie PA 16512. If any more tacks are need than these, the glue is not working, probably because not enough has been applied). Wiggle these a bit to be sure they are well "dug in". Playing and restoring reed organs is a hobby of mine, bringing them back to their … This material is somewhat greasy and should be removed. If you can successfully remove these without destroying them, label them for re-use: otherwise, make new ones to match the old. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1980. CATCH RAIL: (Key retainer) A strangely-shaped wooden piece at the rear of the keyboard which prevents the key-tails from rising when the front is pushed down. These are part of the original fabric of the instrument, and should be preserved and re-used. The reed organ enjoyed a period of great popularity in North America for about a century, beginning around 1835, with thousands of instruments per year being manufactured. (Some early organs and melodeons did not use bushings on the key pins" excessive wear on these is difficult to reverse: consult an expert). FRONT RAIL: The wooden piece of the key frame which carries the front pins and the thumper felt. For the hinges, you need a heavy cow-hide of nominal 1/16" thickness. If you are serious about doing a rebuild check out the Reed Organ Society website. But even in the halcyon days, ivory was more expensive than pyralin, so ivory is found only on early instruments, or the "upscale" products of later builders. Dislodge anything found by this inspection by further brushing. Please contact the Publications Secretary for a quote. There are several grades (weights): the direct replacement in nearly all cases is OSI's #6340-00, 0.02" thick, single coated black rubber on 20 oz. This is recommended for large cracks and ones which are fairly straight. Instruments with a 6 octave keyboard and nearly identical stop list appear in the Reed Organ Society database: number 350 dated 1904, 675, 1624 dated 1906, 2381 dated 1896 with very similar fretwork, 3496 dated 1899 with similar fretwork below keys, If so, the fabric has to be replaced. Heating destroys enough wood fibers to release the screw, leaving a hole that will still receive the same size screw successfully. This book These are sometimes erroneously called "pitmans". You will almost certainly find the keys badly out of level, key-drop too shallow or too deep, and so forth. I usually remove the valves first, numbering them as I go. Good idea to have a nice flat table in an out-of-the-way place to accumulate all the bits and pieces. 6-octave keyboard, 14 stops (10 speaking) in a heavy golden oak console. However, pyralin is EXTREMELY flammable (chemically, it is the same as nitrocellulose film base, which caused many a nasty theater fire until safety film was developed). Sand both sides, and top and bottom with 200-grit garnet paper in a rubber holder. If you are lucky, the foundation is NOT glued to the lower action: if you are UNlucky, it is, and you need to seek advice on how to get it apart. The following image shows one of the definitions of ROS in English: Reed Organ Society. The first step, as always, is to vacuum or blow out all loose junk. It should be obvious that the sides of this exhauster will be covered next, by applying glue to requisite surfaces and pulling the cover into place carefully, avoiding breaking the ribs away from the cloth. More portable than pipe organs, free-reed organs were widely used in smaller churches and in private homes in the 19th century, but their … First, place the piece of felt for notes 1-13 on a flat surface, and hold it in place with masking tape at the ends. History of the reed organ. A *barely* damp rag will take off dirt or soot accumulated on the leather face, and similar accumulations of dirt on the sides of the felt can be blown off with the air-hose, or brushed away carefully; a soft-bristle tooth-brush works well. If the springs are dirty or corroded, you may wish to remove these as well. Not to be confused with ADvice, something no one wants. Just as you change the timbre of your voice by constantly re-shaping your mouth, the cavity into which a reed speaks can have a marked effect on the final sound (along with matters having to do with the scale and shape of the reed itself, of course). Next, you need to observe carefully exactly how the material is applied, especially how it is "closed" at the hinge end. Small shims under the leaves of the hinges where these are screwed to the foundation will cure this problem. Grasp the base of the spring where it is pushed into the spring-rail and pull it firmly straight out. Each wire, with its bearings, can now be lifted out. Attacking one of these coupler actions requires care, patience, great attention to detail, and several hours of time at a minimum. You want the glue *only* where it was originally, and NOT over any area that shows through the fret-work. If you are looking for service in the bay area for an electronic organ (one that has a cord that plugs into the wall outlet) contact Rod Camp in Livermore . When it *is* thoroughly dry, trim off any excess fabric with a razor blade and straightedge. Another way is to use a very straight length of thin metal clamped in position such that it will prevent the blade from wandering too close to the mute itself. With this chore out of the way, it is time to continue with the upper action. Bear in mind that the felt you are replacing is likely a hundred years old, and that you expect your replacement to last just as long! However after having talked to various experts, they are of the opinion that many of the techniques discussed are questionable. Translation Find a translation for Reed Organ Society in other languages: If you have a belt sander, the task is simple: hold each valve in turn against the belt, with just enough time and pressure to yield a clean surface. Cut pieces of the new material, observing the "grain" of it, and iron it on an ironing-board so it is dead flat and without creases. Remove old leather by pulling it off. Reed organs were, for the most part, assembled using screws. Either way, remove the bearings, throw away any scraps of felt that may remain, and accumulate all the wires in order. Depending on just how close together the two exhausters are, you will need to have some wooden "spatulas" to help you work the inner joint down. Another technique is to apply heat to the screw head; use a large electric iron (not a flame) and heat just long enough to drive a bit of odor out of the wood. The blade must be held perpendicular to the work, and care must be taken not to slice the valve itself. They should be preserved, they should be played, and they should be enjoyed. As with the rest of the instrument's various bits and pieces, the first step is to assure that the keys are numbered in order. A reed pipe (also referred to as a lingual pipe) is an organ pipe that is sounded by a vibrating brass strip known as a reed.Air under pressure (referred to as wind) is directed towards the reed, which vibrates at a specific pitch.This is in contrast to flue pipes, which contain no moving parts and produce sound solely through the vibration of air molecules. Replace the felt strips, using hot glue, of course. A weight on the cover helps hold things. Make a note on paper somewhere of the *exact* relationship of the "legs" of the bearing (usually these are "short" and "long") with respect to the position of the bent wire. If you are with me to this point, the upper action is well along. Clean the face with care on the belt sander, or use the hot water technique, using just enough to do the job; allow the cleaned mutes to dry *thoroughly*. I've found huge moths, balls of "fuzz", shards of wood, none of which the air blast dislodged. In order to create this kind of tension successfully, the hole in one of the pieces must be drilled so as to permit free passage of the screw shank and any portion of the threads as well. You may also find missing knob-faces here. the exhausters likewise. This is usually a "line" of glue about an eighth of an inch wide; the old glue will usually show well enough that you can follow it as a guide. He retains full and exclusive rights to both pictures and text. These are tricky in the extreme to re-do, so unless it is clear that the leather on the mute MUST be replaced, don't take these mutes out. Buffing on a wire-wheel is advised, especially if they are rusty. Lastly, check the keys for side-to-side wobble: each key should be completely free to move on its front pin, but there should be almost no side motion possible. Just be sure to keep your fingertips away from the belt. Apply wood strips now, if there are any. Get used to using B (= bass) and T (= treble) to indicate which end of the organ things go to. Collapse a spring firmly in your hand and withdraw it. Leave the hinge on the mute, taking out screws of the leaf that is on the cell block. The Registered Agent on file for this company is Reed Organ Society, Inc. and is located at Charles Robinson, Treasurer Po Box 47, Independence, MO 64051-0047. Neither technique will work at all. will do: artist's board works well. The Marines' Hymn - Reed Organ In full working order. One attacks the keys individually next. ), Raising the keys is a bit trickier, and there are several ways to do it. Then put one point against a firm surface and carefully allow the spring to open up. Working quickly, apply a coat of glue to the cloth *and* to the glue-face of the prepared ribs, and drop them into place. This is not always easy, especially if the organ is fitted with the usual bass and treble couplers. Find the exact center of this piece, and make a heavy pencil line across the piece. I find it helpful to next tape off the areas *out*side the pencil tracings with ordinary masking tape. Now measure the width of the movable board, and make two more cross-wise pencil lines half that width away from the center line in each direction. Reeds are removed and cleaned. For this work, a driver with the correct shape of tip, carefully dressed, should be used. (I once removed well over a hundred tacks, including thumb-tacks, from a 10" x 10" exhauster on a M&H "Baby". DON'T just put them in a tray and hope for the best: if that tray gets tipped, you have a major problem! After all, the reed organ you have was built in a factory by dozens or hundreds of workers, probably no one of which ever paid any real attention to the completed instrument. The approach is similar to doing the reservoir, with a few minor changes. If you get in a jam, there are lots of aficiandos "out there" who will be happy to assist: don't hesitate to track them down and pick their brains! They evidently had a lot of faith in rubber-cloth!). Put a *thin* layer of hot glue on the mute face, and place it carefully on its leather strip, leaving an excess all around. Soundboard is cleaned and clear coated. Conversely, if the drop is too deep, a thicker felt (or a shim under what you have) is the best remedy. In a pinch, chamois *can* be used, though it tends to be too "stretchy" and it is thus harder to trim the valves apart neatly. The fourth deadly sin - very common, alas! 3. Whatever method is used (or you plan to use), be *sure* it is in place before removing any keys from the frame. These are actually easier to work on than the later ones, where the pillow block is replaced by a metal one which is punched through the bed and crimped on the underside. Since the keys are not all exactly the same width, it is best to use a piece of felt a trifle too wide, line it up with one side, glue in place, and trim off the excess. (R=right and L=left gets confusing, as it varies depending on your position with respect to the organ itself). (It was most often a red cotton poplin, and has often been replaced with material much too thick. The 2019 International Reed Organ Society's gathering was held at our musseum last year. Most often, there will not be much wood there to use as a guide. If the reservoir has internal springs, some care is needed. If possible, leave this overnight - then you will be sure! They can be numbered with an "electric pencil" on the under-side of each paddle. The Conklin Reed Organ Museum opened in December of 1977 with Mr. Conklin's 73 organs. Once the lower action is back in the case, the treadles are hooked up, and the exhauster springs in place, it is time to test your work. But, the reed organs of the old parlors had an impressive gallary standing up nearly to the ceiling. Murphy's oil soap on a damp rag is the best first-step, and is often all that's necessary to get this goop off. All this work is quite straightforward, just a matter of cleaning, replacing any worn or missing felt, and re-hinging: then re-assembling. Certified Appraiser/Valuer and Restorer of Reed Organs, Harmoniums and Celestas. Old screws were manufactured using a machining process; their threads are sharply cut, and the edges of flat-heads are also sharp and well-defined. Don't stretch the felt - let it lie naturally. It remains only to check out the rest of the lower action. Take an especially long one, if the springs are to go on the inside. Work slowly and carefully! Suppress the notion of using duct-tape. Although there were many manufacturers of reed organs, Estey’s dominance in the market was due largely to the company’s innovations in both design and marketing. These are often seen as daunting tasks, and at first glance it may seem to be difficult. The Aeolian Grand Player Reed Organ was the first keyboard-type player reed organ to be sold in quantity. Steps 1 through 4 should be done before continuing with: 5. There, the crystal dishes from Ireland were on display. This pin serves both to retain the key in position. The piece of metal is called a reed. Reed Organ Collection. Note: Some actions - notably Mason & Hamlin - use mutes which close a boxed-in area in front of the cells; vacuum is admitted to this area when the stop is off. PLATING: The material covering the white keys and (usually) fronts thereof. Quick Search Power Search Other Continents. - music. In addition to the conditions in category 2, there is evident corrosion (verdigris), probably where mouse urine found its way into the action. Note: The first time you "operate" a freshly covered (and dry) set of exhausters, you will hear fearsome "cracking and crunching" sounds: don't worry: this is glue that inevitably finds its way into cracks and crevices where it isn't needed, breaking loose. punch or a leather punch: the dot should be as close to the sticker's diameter as you can get. Before doing this, however, inspect the soundboard closely for cracks. Correct this by tapping the top of the balance pin in the appropriate direction: place the tip of a screw driver on the exposed tip, and hit it with the butt of your fist. As the pressure developed to make ROs cheaper, the style evolved that used a single piece of rubber cloth, often with ribs inside. At the same time, this characteristic of being tiny means they are the most delicate and most easily put out of order. Our website includes lots of information of interest to reed organ owners and aficionados. All this accomplished, you can return the lower action to the case, and prepare to work on the upper action, to be treated in subsequent sections of this narrative. Stubborn stains on ivory can be sanded out with 600-grit paper and great care! The *length* of the piece to cut is the sum of the length of both sides *plus* the width, and again some "trim" - refer to your notes to see how much. Old pyralin can burn almost explosively if handled in the wrong way, so wherever "caution" is mentioned as work progresses, take heed! With the casework out of the way, you'll find some sort of linkages (wooden sticks, wires, or straps) that ultimately connect the stop-knobs to the mutes: these parts are usually at the extreme end of the action, (they may, however be arranged along the back of the stop action) and are made to be disconnected fairly easily.
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